Climbing Mt St Helens is like traveling to a different planet. The terrain is varied and nearly always punishing, the topography is bleak but beautiful and the views from the crater rim are unforgettable.
On this page you will find Mt St Helens: Climbing Permit Process Abbreviated Driving Directions Know before You Go Route Expedition Pictures
A permit is required to go above 4,800 ft. This is the timberline. This is where the hike goes from a beautiful trail through the woods to something really different and interesting. It can also be a great place for those in your party not interested in reaching the summit to get great views and turn around. Obtaining permit and the cost depends on when you go.
From November to March 31, permits are free and can be picked up at the Climbers Register (Lone Fir Resort).
The rest of the year permits are $22 and only 100 permits per day are issued. Permits are awarded on a first come first serve reservation system. Reservations start somewhere around the 1st of February. You pay for your permit up front and pick it up on the way to the mountain at the Lone Fir Resort in Cougar WA.
As summer weekends often sell out it is a good idea to pick your day a summer in advance and reserve your passes as soon as reservations become available. After missing out on the hike a previous summer, that is what our party did.
For more information about the permit process visit the
Mt St Helens Forest Service page. |
 |
 |
Creepy Lava Flows |
View from the Ridgeline |
Basin just past timberline |
Abbreviated Driving Directions:
Take I-5 to the Exit 21 (both N and S) and the town of Woodland WA and take WA503 28.4 miles E to Cougar WA.
From Seattle head S, 143 miles to exit 21
From Portland head N, 27 miles to exit 21
From Cougar WA, follow the signs E to Climbers Bivouac. From Seattle the trip is about 3.5 hours in light traffic.
6 Things You Should Know Before You Go:
1. While Mt St Helens is not a technical climb, it is a very strenuous one that gains 4,500 ft to a high point of 8,300', over 5 miles. The climb is far more challenging than these stats make it seem due to the unique topography of the mountain.
2. There is zero shade above tree line, and the sun can be intense, bring more water than you think you can possibly drink! Also much of the hike is spent scrambling over boulders, be ready to climb with all 4s in a few spots. Lastly much of the ground is still covered in ash and pumice from the explosion, so any wind and you will swallow dry ash. Not tasty. Many climbers bring a bandana or dust mask to wear in case of windy weather.
3. Most climbers take the Monitor Ridge route that takes off from Climbers Bivouac. This is also where most people camp. There are 22 campsites at Climbers Bivouac, and parking for considerably more cars. If you do not arrive in time to get a camp site, camping allowed on the mountain up to 4,800’. There isn’t a garbage can at Climbers Bivouac or consistent water available year round, so be prepared to bring your own water and haul out all of your trash.
4. One thing I found interesting about Mt St Helens is that much like a plane flight people tend to blast off at the same time. We left at the 6am boarding, along with many others. This creates something of a cohort as you make your way up the mountain. You see the same people several times and by the time you hit the crater rim you feel like old friends. Our party stayed at the crater rim for a while and waited to cheer some of these friends up the last big push to the summit and back at parking lot, we congratulated them all.
5. Since the eruption Mt St Helens has become quite famous (a fact that leads my wife to believe the whole thing was a PR stunt). There was some debate among our party as to what the ground looked like, contenders are as follows: Afghanistan, the moon or the bottom of a fishbowl. You be the judge.
6. One final point to make about the Mt St Helens experience: critters. Mucho flies live at the campsites and all the way to timberline. Also the area is home to a large singing group of Marmots and they ‘rehearse’ all night long. If you like the sound, “shreeeek” bring a recording device, this is your place.
Route Description:
Unlike most expeditions of this scale, route finding on Mt St Helens via Monitor Ridge is very simple. While many spots lack a clear trail, heading in the right direction is very easy because the route is very bare, and if in doubt head straight up. There are trail markers regularly placed from timberline to the top of the lava fields as well and provide a general direction but again, when in doubt head straight up.
The route generally follows this sequence: tree hike, ridge, boulder/lava fields, ash plains, crater rim.
Hiking time is roughly 12 hours round trip.
Tree Hike: Follow the trail from the Climbers Bivouac trail head 2.2 miles to an open basin. This is 4,800’. Trail is very easy
to follow and gains elevation at a leisurely pace. A few nice views are found along the way, and most importantly when you return to tree line at the end of your hike you will be pretty much done with the heavy lifting of the day. You are just about to break out of the trees when you cross Loowit Trail which runs around the mountain. At the turn off for Loowit Trail, you will also find the only bathroom available between base camp and the crater rim.
Ridge: Once above timberline the route follows a ridge in the mountain. This section is steep in parts, and hints at the mayhem to come. Heading in the right direction is accomplished by following a series of poles sticking up of the ridge, or the hoards of people in front of you.
One thing to remember about Mt St Helens (especially on a summer Saturday) is that 100 people will be following the same path, all leaving at roughly the same time so solitude on the ridge is not likely as it is quite narrow in some places and does not offer many opportunities to pass. This is a fairly long section of the trail, and while interesting due to the bleakness of the trail, is not overly difficult or steep. Word to the wise, on your descent take the path just to the west of the ridge, it is a bit easier. Coming back down this section seems to last forever, keep the faith it will end, eventually.
 |
 |
 |
Ridgline as it climbs to the Lava Fields |
Crowds on the ridge |
Steep section |
Boulder/Lava Fields: All at once the ridge turns decidedly upward and you begin to gain elevation in earnest. You will ascend a series of super steep pitches, each maybe 250’ of vertical gain, at a grade nearly impossible to walk even if this section was not covered in boulders, which it is. This part of the trail is either thrilling or awful depending on your outlook.
If you like picking your path over boulders and scrambling hand over hand it is a blast. If you don’t, well it’s not a blast. While this section of the trail is not long in terms of miles, it is difficult and will likely take considerable time both going up and coming down.
Ash Plains: Once you have ascended over all the boulders, the topography of the mountain changes yet again. The final ordeal to the crater rim is a very steep, completely open vertical expanse of ash and pumice. Think of a great place to put a slip and slide on Dune, that about sums it up. By now you can easily see the crater rim, and all the vertical left to gain.
Try not to cry, you’ll need to stay hydrated.
The ash plains are as steep as they are barren, and to really make it a party the footing is so loose here you constantly slide back after each step, much like walking up Satan’s waterfall. The higher you go the steeper and looser the ash plains become. There are no waypoint markers on this section of the trail, so the only way to judge your progress is by watching people on the crater rim get bigger.
It is not uncommon to see hikers catching their breadth to the side of the trail or simply sitting down. These people are cheerleaders and resting a few minutes is a great opportunity to meet some new people, take a few deep breaths, and keep charging. This section is difficult coming up, however it is a breeze coming down.
 |
 |
 |
Looking down from the Crater Rim |
Looking up the Ash Plains |
Hikers rest while ascending the Ash Plains |
Crater Rim: FINALLY! Standing on the crater rim and peering into the volcano is a lose your breath and feel small type of moment. The colors and shapes created by the eruption are stark, beautiful and a testament to nature’s power. The inside of the volcano has been sheered clean by the blast leaving unique shapes and colors. This is really an amazing summit experience because you truly have no idea what you get to see until you get to the top - Enjoy.
 |
 |
 |
Views from the Crater Rim of Mt St. Helens |
||